Start of fall sewing – using T ‘n T patterns

I had developed a reasonable wardrobe for summer, and then fall arrived. The days are  cool and rainy, and cotton lawn is not cutting it. So, now it’s time for me to evaluate what’s working and adjust to creating a new, flat wardrobe for cooler temps.

My first step was to make knit dresses out of heavier weight fabric and wear my short cardigans (Vogue 9190) over the top. That worked out pretty well for a month.


I was paying attention to color combinations, too.


One book I read talked about having a lighter colored outer layer and a darker inner layer, like a flower.


But I also tested out the opposite contrast with a darker color on the outside layer. Anyway, it’s time to make some warmer jackets. I liked many of the color combinations, and decided to move forward with a similar approach in heavier fabrics.

For the next make, I used my woven dress pattern for the base and added the collar from KS 3796. The fabric is the ubiquitous wool/rayon boucle knit; I used the woven pattern because I anticipated that the pattern would have enough ease if it was made up in a  knit to make a nice cardigan. It worked!

The next photo is how I join the pattern pieces – matching center back and shoulder (the KS is cut on fold, and the dress has a back seam, so the center backs are matched); matching center front and shoulder – to cut out the right neck opening. Then I cut the collar directly from the pattern. Since the neck openings were from the KS pattern, the collar fit exactly right. IMG_9348.jpg

I cut the collar as a single layer and stitched the right side of the collar to the wrong side of the jacket. Note to self – this iteration has the 5/8 seam included, not trimmed off the center opening and around the collar. This was a very simple make since the edges and hems didn’t require finishing.

Here’s the result, which I wore today. Surprisingly, I was able to wear the little jacket all day – I wasn’t too bothered by the scratch-factor. But as I type, the jacket is getting irritating!

I can see the possibility of rounding off the collar points to make a rounded shawl collar from this pattern, too. image2.jpeg





This is the start of my fall “uniform” – a knee-length dress with a short jacket/cardigan. I’ll wear leggings, including fleece leggings, if it gets colder. Do you have a “uniform” approach to your wardrobe? If so, what is it?

Detour from stitching- Pink Lemonade Project Breast Cancer Survivor Retreat

If you are only here for the sewing, I’ll be back with more on Sunday. However, sewists are well-rounded people, too, and I just got back from a survivor retreat that I really want to tell about.


Pink Lemonade Project hosts several different kinds of retreats for Breast Cancer survivors, and I was able to attend one last weekend. The survivor retreats are small (limited to 10 participants) and are facilitated by two talented, dedicated professional oncology social workers. The venue (vista above) is beautiful and well-suited to the retreat (including that each woman had her own room and bathroom). And, they are currently free. (Really!)


I’m still processing everything that happened – building connections, feeling lots of emotions, being pampered, and envisioning my future – but I want to encourage you to attend a retreat if you haven’t. (Search the web for “breast cancer retreat” and a location to find opportunities near you.) Just being around people who know what it’s like to have a nasty treatment protocol, deal with the various parts of the medical system, and manage through social situations is really refreshing, affirming and powerful. I don’t think of myself as a big “group person”, but this was well worth my time!

Also of note – I’ll have my final Herceptin treatment on Wednesday. Then the port comes out next month! (Cue the confetti!)

Have you found any highly valuable resources for a survivor?

Post-surgery robe – K4226


I’m looking at newly released patterns with a new eye, and this one caught my attention. If you are sewing for post-surgery, one of the things you may want is a functional robe. This Kwik Sew 4226 looks like it has options for whatever needs you may have for a robe. I especially like the front closure – the overlap is deep, so you will likely stay covered. Also, there appears to be Velcro to keep the wrap section secure.

A pattern is a good place to start. (In general, I think patterns are not sacred text that should be preserved for eternity.) In this case, I’d likely join the open sleeve (which look like they are secured with Velcro) by sewing the top opening of the sleeves with a seam. If I wanted to make this into a dress to wear to a chemo treatment, I’d likely adjust the raglan sleeve to have a zipper or other closure to access the port. (The chemo infusion room I’ve been to is no fashion show. Wear what is comfortable and works for you!) If the neckline is too low, I’d finish it with a 4″ bias-cut strip of fabric (folded over and attached like a band, possibly like view B, I don’t know what the pattern pieces look like) instead of the bias tape called for in the pattern. If I didn’t want the back opening, I’d just overlap the pattern pieces and tape them together before cutting. Then I’d need to adjust the stitching order and/or consider how to finish the garment. Or I could cut the back as the pattern indicates and sew it closed.

If you are sewing for a post-mastectomy body, what are some of your needs and wants?


Featured Sewist- Rebecca Hamilton

I’m so delighted to share Rebecca’s words with you today. I found her on Sewing Pattern Review and invited her to write about how she learned how to sew, what it’s like to sew for a post-mastectomy body, what she has learned along the way, and whatever else she’d like to share. Thank you so much, Rebecca, for letting us have a glimpse into your life! If you or someone you know would like to write about their experiences sewing for a post-mastectomy body, please contact me (brendamarkssstudio at yahoo dot com). The rest of this post contains her words.

REbecca 1.jpgI began sewing when I was about 15. I went to a store, bought a pattern and fabric and brought it home. I still remember laying the pattern pieces and the fabric out on the living room floor and trying to figure out what to do with them.

It was a tough go, teaching myself to sew. I used my grandmother’s antique Singer from before the turn of the 20th century and basically just muddled through. Over time, I developed the ability to make all of my own clothing.

I lost interest in sewing after I grew up and started making enough money to buy ready-made clothing. I tried it again briefly when I was in my 30s, but had the misfortune to buy a bad machine. I don’t know what happened to that machine. I do know that I quit sewing again and didn’t re-start until just recently.

The trigger for my renewed interest was a breast cancer diagnosis and the realization that I would have a mastectomy. I never considered reconstructive surgery — too many un-needed surgeries, too much unnecessary pain — and I realized that I would never be an off-the-rack girl again.

When I started sewing again after the mastectomy, I had a terrible time fitting myself. I’m overweight. Before the surgery, I was a generous hour glass. After the surgery, I was more of a beaker. Now, after a lot of mistakes and a long learning curve, I’ve gotten better at the fitting, but I’m still way out there when it comes to developing a style that fits my personality and taste and still flatters my new body.

I really wish there was more focus on what works for flat and fabulous women from professional designers and stylists. But I think that is a vain hope, considering that they don’t even spend much time designing and styling for women who haven’t had mastectomies but who have normal, female curves. I don’t have a very high opinion of the fashion industry because of this. I view it as a form of misogyny.

Pattern Review has been a wonderful source of both sewing information and inspiration. It has informed me about everything from sewing basics to the kinds of sewing machines out there to buy. I also use the classes on the Craftsy platform to learn more about sewing.

I realize now that I never knew much about sewing back when I was young. I just plowed in there and taught myself. I learned to avoid difficult patterns and to focus on fabric to get the wow factor in what I made. It worked, but I didn’t really know much. At the same time, some of the techniques I figured out for myself, such as ez ways to put in zippers, I now see being touted as “advanced” techniques used by “industry professionals.” Me, I was just making up cheats to make my life easier.

rebecca 2.jpgThe biggest differences between my sewing then and now are that (1) I’m enjoying it now, whereas I pretty much hated it back then. I just did it so I would have clothes to wear because we couldn’t afford them any other way, and (2) I have the right equipment now. I didn’t even have a pair of sharp scissors back when I was a kid. I remember my hands would be swollen, with dents from the scissors in them after each pattern I cut out. Today, if I need it, I buy it. The right tools make sewing much easier and more rewarding. They make it fun.

I haven’t found any patterns that I would call faves yet. I have found patterns that work, but they aren’t really where I want to end up. I am taking note of what flatters and developing ideas about how to incorporate that into an ultimate “look” that works for me. I am also learning sewing skills. Since I’m enjoying sewing so much, the journey is part of the reward.

This return to sewing has helped me process the trauma of the cancer and its treatment. It has been a way that I can regain control of my life and do something to regain what I’ve lost, plus add a few points to the total. Now that I’ve started on a weight loss journey (Weight Watchers) and combined that with working out six days a week, I’m discovering that this, too, is a way of regaining control and self-esteem.

I felt ugly for a long time after the surgery. I don’t think it was the loss of my breasts. That would be simple to fix with prosthetics. it went deeper than that. I lost something, some part of myself, and it wasn’t a physical attribute. I guess it was the sense of personal invulnerability and a future. I left one big-name hospital and some very high-powered doctors because I found the experience there demeaning. They saw me as a cancer; not a person, not even a patient — just a cancer. That whole experience hurt me deeply.

Sewing, working out, getting fit and strong again, all these things give me back part of what that medical center took from me, which is to say my sense of control and personal autonomy. At their deepest level, they help me assert that I am a person, not a disease.

Rebecca Hamilton

The Double Edged Sword of Breast Cancer Awareness Month


(Image from  Consensys )

I am very grateful for all of the positive outcomes of the pink ribbon campaign. For example, I know I’m not alone. Additionally, when I discuss my diagnosis, generally people aren’t acting as though they are super uncomfortable. The pink ribbon sticker in the back of a car brought me to tears when I saw it one day as I driving to a medical appointment for breast cancer. I was so sorry that someone else may have had to endure the same treatments I did, and I also felt a kinship.

I had tremendous mixed feelings last year as I walked around Salem Health and was confronted with life sized cut outs of women that had meassages about breast cancer. Many of these were statistics about factors that people do not have control over. While I think information is generally a helpful thing, these troubled me. (They disappeared at the end of October, so they were part of an awareness campaign.)

I have some problems with the pink tide that rises in October. It seems like a marketing bonanza for many companies, which feels exploitative. Consumers may assume that buying a product with a pink ribbon means a donation will be made toward a breast cancer organization, but that’s not always true.  Another example is from several years ago, there were popular pink wrist bands touting “I love boobies”, which the boys in my class could point to and claim to support breast cancer awareness. I’m still dubious.

My final comment (for today) is that I want to avoid being reduced to a pink ribbon or a single issue, which I fear can happen when bumper sticker politics take over a complex issue.


New-ish pattern releases

Why did I only just now think of selecting some new pattern releases that the flat-chested of us might want? I think it’s because I generally take a pattern that fits and add the details that I want. However, not everyone does that! Here are some recent pattern releases that may work for post-mastectomy, non-reconstructed bodies. I’ve added a few comments about why I think they could be a good idea. Many of these seem to not have a dart and/or have distracting elements to the top half.


McCalls 7655  is an on-trend dress with layers that can distract the eye from the bust.


Mccalls 7658  is another on-trend pattern with a capelet feature. This can add some layers to the top half and add the illusion of a bust.  Butterick.6479 is another variation and includes a dress.


With the off-the-shoulder look, Butterick 6495 is a fun choice since I/we don’t have to concern ourselves with bra straps!


Butterick 6496 has interesting style lines that look like they could add interest and distract from a flat chest.


Vogue 1554 has tucks along the bust, adding some visual bulk.


I bought Vogue 9266 at one of the recent on-line sales and can’t wait to try it out. My first one will be in a beefy t-shirt knit. I think this cute topper would add to the top without being too obvious.


Vogue 9276 is another pattern I recently bought. I think it will be good either dressed up or dressed down. I think I’ll be narrowing the sleeves. These ones make me think of cuffs in my dinner, which is not a good look on New Year’s Eve!


The ruffled version of Burda 6456 adds some distraction to the area. You may need to eliminate the dart for a good fit. Alternately, you can sew “the essence of a dart” by sewing it more like a small tuck. (Then you’d probably have to eliminate some length in the front to have it match the back.)


What caught my eye with Burda 6475 is the seam over the bust. There may be some bust shaping in that seam that you may want to adjust, but the seam creates the illusion of a larger bust area.


Burda 6455 reminds me of good ideas from the early 80’s. I really like the soft drape and the shawl collar. I may be buying this one.

I’ve not included Simplicity or New Look patterns because I think that website is a disaster. Burda is so well drafted that I look at these releases (usually on Sewing Pattern Review).

What patterns do you suggest for a flat chested gal?


Connections made through sewing

My clothes might have seven degrees of separation from you! I’m inspired by so many people in person and on line – the style, fabric, color, detail, etc. of what I see.

As I posted for Tribute Month in response to the Sewcialists challenge, I began to think about the ways that sewing makes me feel connected to all kinds of people. (And I’m hoping that this blog is reaching out with helpful information to my new, breastless tribe.)

The first photo above is my second grade school picture, and the dress was made by my friend (former step-mom) who is in the second picture. She sewed all kinds of clothes for me over the years, and sewing can bring me back to those happy moments of creating together. In the second picture, she’s cutting out a t-shirt using a pattern that I adjusted for her. I was so happy to be able to give a little back to her!

My sewing machine choices also illustrate my connections with others. I’ve never had a new machine. In the second photo, I’m about 22 years old, sewing on a hand-me-down from my friend’s (former step-mom’s) sister. Later in life, when a machine of mine was beyond repair, I searched out and bought sewing machines that I learned to sew on. They were familiar and engendered a feeling of connection.

The first photo is a machine that I recently bought from a neighbor down the street who moved into a retirement place. I have fond memories of her and will enjoy using her machine, too.

Recently, two people I adore in the sewing world were connected to me through this coat. Anne Whalley from Australia made the coat, and Ryliss Bod of Sewing and Design School bought it from Anne. I was able to try on the coat when I was with Ryliss for a sewing workshop. (The coat is made from a table cloth! I’m thinking that the design could be replicated printed through Spoonflower.)

indigo VerbI also am inspired by other’s passion. In this case, I bought a piece of indigo-dyed fabric from A Verb For Keeping Warm. (The skirt of this dress was made from the indigo fabric.) I am inspired by Kristine Vejar’s commitment to exploring how to come back to local resources to use in our knitting and sewing projects.

Finally, the header of this blog is a photo of silk thread from my former mother-in-law’s estate. I wonder where it’s been (she’d lived so many places!) and what she made with it.

When you are sewing, in what ways do you feel connected?