A Little Somethin’ Experiments

As planned, I’ve been working on making the Little Somethin’ Jacket into something I want to wear. Sadly, I haven’t been successful with velvet, yet. Actually, velvet is the reason I haven’t posted in so long. I started making a simple, shoulder princess seam dress out of velvet and was so incredibly frustrated. I had sewn each seam at least twice and it still isn’t presentable. I pinned the seam every 1/2 inch. I did diagonal basting. I resewed seams. Then I abandoned the velvet dress for A Little Somethin’ else.

somethin toile (1).jpg

Here’s my first attempt, which might get worn. The fabric is a rayon/lycra knit and you can see how the stand-up collar just crumples. It’s not the pattern’s fault; this is all about fabric choice. (Also, I need to get the sleeve length and shoulder seam right.) But I liked the direction; this showed promise. Please note that this is the Little Somethin’ Jacket front grafted on to Marcy Tilton’s short jacket Vogue 9190. I’ll show you how I did that below.

This first attempt was promising enough to use some lovely 50cotton/50 wool knit. Which turned out great!

somethin toile (2).jpg

I wear this dark grey version all of the time. It’s very comfortable and breathes well. That gave me enough courage to proceed with a longer version (dress length), made out of a wool french terry cloth.

long somthin.jpg

I’ve only worn this one once, but it worked well – not too hot and very cozy.

My philosophy with sewing has developed into “use what works”, and for me that means taking patterns that I like and re-using them in a variety of ways. For this long version of the cardigan, I used the body from my woven dress pattern (self-drafted – see previous posts), the collar from the Little Somethin’ Jacket, and the sleeves from V9190. Here’s my very inelegant but practical process.

front  sandwich  (2).jpg

I used the woven princess seam dress pattern as the basis for the front, and matched center fronts (sort of, the front of the Little Somethin’ is very diagonal, and I explain why below), and matched the shoulder seams. Then I pinned the fronts together, and folded away the excess tissue. Because of the Little Somethin’ front diagonal, I chalked in the front line on the fabric before cutting.  The folded front area is 2.75″, and I added a little off-graining (see Roberta Carr’s Couture Sewing book).

front  sandwich  (3).jpg

I like the sleeve from V 9190, which means I need to use the armscye from that pattern, too. I matched the shoulder seams and close to the side seams, pinned the patterns together, and folded away the excess from V9190.

side back sandwich.jpgDitto for the back armscye.

back sandwich.jpg

Finally, I needed to use the upper back seam from Little Somethin’ for it to work with the front collar. There’s not a huge difference, but this will make the collar work better than my dress pattern. When I was cutting, the beige tissue on the left was folded away.

Now all of the pattern pieces will fit together. I used the instructions for the collar from the Little Somethin’ Jacket and the rest of it is simple assembly – sew side fronts to front, sew side backs to back, sew shoulder seams, insert sleeves, sew side seams, and hem.

Finally, since this blog is focused on sewing for a flat chest, I want to point out where the bust dart is in the Little Somethin’ Jacket. See how wide the hem is here?

something front dart (2).jpg

I was pretty sure that the dart was rotated to the hem, and you can sort of see that in the photo below.  On the left side, you can see a fold of fabric at the hem, and the diagonal closing is also in part due to the dart rotation. It’s less obvious on the right here, and I think that’s because my arm is sticking out.

somethin toile (1).jpg

In any case, you can remove this dart if you want to use the pattern (and not graft the front like I did). Essentially, this is a small bust adjustment for a rotated dart. This is the cheater method – fold the dart out:

something front dart (1).jpg

If you wanted to do a proper method, this post should help – http://www.queenofdarts.com/2013/03/small-bust-adjustment-part-2.html.

I’m now on a quest to make leggings. I cut apart an old pair to compare it to patterns, and I’m very surprised at how dissimilar the old commercial leggings are to either of the two patterns I have (StyleArc Laura and M7514). My inclination is to trace a pattern from the commercial leggings. I’ll update…

4 thoughts on “A Little Somethin’ Experiments”

  1. These are super cute! I’ve been going with out a padded bra during the winter and it’s much more comfortable and my lopsided breasts are not as noticeable. I think I could use your little jackets to wear over summer dresses .

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Glad the post was helpful, Raquel! If you want to share your creation here, just let me know. Or, if you have a post on Pattern Review, I can add a link. All the best – Brenda

      Like

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