Drafting a knit bodice pattern that fits

When we last saw our heroine (me – lol), she was in a Lady Skater bodice, and it looked ok. At this point, it seemed like the next thing to try was drafting a bodice to see if I could get a better fit.

After a quick web search, I found directions on a site that seems quite reputable, Madalyne. Since my sewing teacher was out of town, I went to a local shop, She’s The Cats Meow Bridal, and Suzette took my measurements. (She was very helpful, and I recommend her shop if you live here and need her services!) I took in my iPad and used  the diagrams on Maddie’s site to gather measurements – WFullSizeRenderarning! If you do this, read the words, too. You need more measurements than are in the photos. Additionally, you will likely need the directions for the back bodice, too.

I followed the directions and drafted a bodice the best I could. From my point of view, it turned out pretty well considering this was my first try ever at pattern drafting!

A sloper has no ease and is a starting point for developing a pattern.  I just wanted to see the shape of the pattern and compare it to my existing patterns to see if they had a bust dart rotated to the arm scythe or somewhere else. Upon comparison, the sloper was a very similar shape to the Lady Skater front bodice. This is when I started to figure out that the sleeve was the problem. I adjusted the sleeve and my back-sliding shoulder seam went away.

While I didn’t use the directions at This Is Moonlight, I trust them. You may find them helpful if you want another idea about how to fit “the new landscape” as my surgeon put it.

My plans are to use this basic bodice to create all kinds of style lines and interesting patterns to make knit tops that fit. I’ll be showing you my methods.

In the mean time, Marla (my sewing teacher) returned, and we met to fit a woven sloper. We used OOP Simplicity 1878 (Lisette’s Diplomat dress) since it had a very small (5/8″) bust dart, which was easy to take out and had a minimal effect on the fit of the rest of the pattern.  I highly suggest this pattern if you want a good basic dress that is easy to fit.

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